Among the many models of skirts, the most popular is, without a doubt, the medium-length straight. Stylistically, it is a universal thing that can be played up for business, everyday and evening looks. Sewing it is quite simple, the main thing is to correctly make a pattern in accordance with your size.
Taking measurements and building a pattern
To sew a straight, two-seam skirt, you only need to take three measurements:
- half-girth of the waist;
- half-girth of the hips;
- the length of the future skirt.
In addition, you need to remember about the increase in the waist line and hip line. For the waist, it will be 1 cm wide, for the hips - about 2 cm. It is quite simple to construct a pattern. Draw a straight line on the fabric, from the middle of which you should draw a segment at a right angle - it will be the middle of the front of the skirt.
The length of the segment should correspond to the length of the future product, just do not forget to add a little length to the hem of the hem. It should also be marked with a point corresponding to the line of the hips for the skirt. Through the end of the segment and the set point, parallel straight lines must be drawn - they will be markers for the hem of the skirt and the line of the hips.
Further, from the original straight line, measure a segment equal to half the hip circumference + 2 cm, draw the corresponding parallel lines through it and another straight line, which will be the middle of the back of the skirt. Exactly through the middle of the resulting rectangle, another straight line is drawn - a cutting line for two panels.
The next step in building a straight skirt pattern is marking the darts. To calculate how many centimeters are needed for darts, you need to subtract the half-girth of the waist with an allowance from the half-girth of the hips with an allowance. The resulting length can be left with one side dart, or divided into two or three darts, which will be located in the front and side. They are built in the form of triangles with a base at the waist line and a top that does not reach the hip line by 2-3 cm. The sides are indicated by smooth lines.
Skirt sewing process
First you need to cut the details: place the middle of the front and back panels on the fold of the fabric for correct cutting. Basting along side seams and hem. In the left seam you need to sweep in a hidden zipper "snake". When trying on for the first time, check that the darts are correctly cut and positioned.
Next, you need to carefully iron the folds of the darts with an iron, and then grind them. Sew the side seams, remembering to leave room for the zipper on the left. It is best to overlock the edges of the seams so that they do not fray. Tied seams also need to be ironed.
Using a separate seam, you need to grind the snake and then iron it with an iron. You also need to sew and iron the hem of the skirt. From the remnants of the fabric, you can cut out a belt panel with a length of two half-grips of the waist plus seam allowances, the width can be arbitrary. Do not forget that the belt will need to be folded in half.
Sew the belt to the top of the skirt and iron it carefully. The last stage is the rough work of removing the overedge threads, as well as the complete ironing of all the seams of the skirt.
With the correct calculation and construction of the pattern, a two-seam skirt is sewn extremely quickly and from almost any fabric. Unless, when using a fabric in a cage, more attention will be required, since such a print requires careful joining of the pattern when cutting.
