A straight skirt is appropriate in any woman's wardrobe. It looks good both on a slim and full figure, as it visually lengthens it. The basis for the pattern of such a skirt is the basic pattern. It is better to do it not on paper, but on cardboard or plastic wrap, because it will come in handy more than once. For a straight skirt pattern, you will need to make some changes to it.
It is necessary
- - graph paper sheet;
- - ruler;
- - square;
- - pencil.
Instructions
Step 1
If you don't have a basic template yet, start by building one. Take measurements. You will need a half-waist, half-hip, length of the product and the distance between the lines of the hips and waist. Start construction with a rectangle. On the line of intersection of the left edge of the graph paper with one of the wide lines, put a point T1 and set aside the hip circumference plus an allowance for free fit from it to the right, and the length of the product down and put points T2 and H1. Draw perpendiculars from these points until they intersect with each other, marking the resulting point H2.
Step 2
Down from the T1T2 line, set aside the distance between the lines of the waist and hips. Draw a line parallel to the waistline and mark it as B1B2. Determine the position of the side seam. To do this, divide the half-girth of the thighs together with the flattened allowance for a free fit in half. Put a dot on the line of the hips, you can not mark it in any way. Increase the front half by 1 cm, and decrease the back half by the same amount and set point B3. Define the part of the pattern on the left as the front part, and let the back be on the right.
Step 3
Determine the position of the front groove. To do this, divide line B1B3 by 5 and set aside this distance from the side seam line to the front half of the pattern. Draw a perpendicular (dotted line) down to this point. At the perpendicular, set aside a distance of 9-10 cm, depending on your height and size of the abdomen.
Step 4
Find the middle of the back groove. Divide line B2B3 in half and set aside the resulting size from the seam line towards the back half. Draw a perpendicular to this point at a distance of 13-15 cm. Its size depends on the growth and shape of the buttocks.
Step 5
Calculate the groove solutions. To do this, determine the size of the waist line on the front half. To the measurement you have, add an allowance for freedom of fit and set aside the resulting distance from point T to the right. Set point T3. The solution of the undercut is the difference between the hip half-girth increased to freedom and the waist half-girth increased. That is, it can be calculated by the formula P = (POB + PSO) - (POT + PSO). Divide this measurement by 2. This is the total size of all the undercuts. Determine half of them on the side, 2.5 cm will go to the front, the rest of the segment to the back. Divide all measurements by 2 and set aside. Set aside the half sizes along the waist line on both sides of the corresponding punctures.
Step 6
Adjust your waistline. Lift from the side of the side seam by a centimeter and a half, the lines of the undercuts - about 0.5-0.7 cm. Draw straight lines between the tops of the front and back undercuts and their ends. Circle the side undercut with a smooth curve repeating the lines of the figure, from the vertices to point B3. Connect points T and T1 with a smooth concave line, connecting the vertices of the undercuts and the top edges of the midlines. You have the basic pattern ready, now it remains to model a straight skirt based on it.
Step 7
Model the back groove. You know the solution. Divide it by 3. 2/3 will go to the first groove (it is closer to the middle of the back), 1/3 to the second, located closer to the side seam. Determine their place. The middle of the first groove will be 5-7 cm from the middle. The distance between the midpoints of both undercuts is 7-9 cm. Their depths are respectively 13-15 and 12-13 cm.
Step 8
Raise the ends of the undercuts above the waistline. The first will be 0.3-0.4 cm higher, the second will be 0.5-0.7 cm. Connect all the points of the top of the back in the same way as you did when building the pattern for the front of the skirt.
