Even if you prefer different hem shapes, your straight skirt patterning skills will come in handy. This template will become the base from which you can draw a pattern for any other skirt model.
Instructions
Step 1
Take the pattern paper. On the left, draw a vertical segment AB equal to the length of the skirt. From point A, set aside half the length of the back to the waist down, subtract one centimeter and put point B.
Step 2
From point B, set the half girth of the hips to the right with an increase in free fit (B1). Draw vertical line B1B1 to the bottom of the hem. From B1, go up to a distance equal to the length of the skirt in front. Check A1.
Step 3
Divide the half girth of the thighs in half, make an increase in the free fit and set this distance on the line of the thighs from point B to B2. From this place, you need to start a vertical line. In the place of its intersection with the hem line, put the designation B2. Draw a segment B2A2 equal to the length of the skirt.
Step 4
The basic shape of a straight two-seam skirt is built. In order for it to fit the figure, make three darts in the drawing. The sum of the width of all darts is equal to the difference between the width of the skirt at the waist line and at the hip line.
Step 5
The side tuck opening is exactly half this value. To build it, from point A2 to the left and to the right, measure half of the tuck solution. Put points K and K1. Connect them to point B2. Divide the resulting segments in half. From these central points inside the dart, draw perpendicular lines and measure 0.5 cm on them. About 2 cm will remain from the dart to the hip line. Connect points K and K1 with this area, smoothly bending the line where you marked 0 on the perpendiculars, 5 cm.
Step 6
The solution of the rear dart is about one third of the total of the solutions of all darts. Subtract 2 cm from the quarter of the half-girth of the hips and set aside the resulting value from point A to the right. Set point K2. From it, draw a vertical line to the line of the hips, measure to the right and left at half the width of the dart. This dart is about 3 cm short of the hip line. Connect the edges of the dart to this point with smooth arcs.
Step 7
The width of the front dart is equal to one-sixth of the total of the darts. Subtract 1 cm from a quarter of the half-girth of the hips. Set the result of the calculations along the waist line from point A1 to the left (K3). Draw an auxiliary vertical line from K3 to the hip line. Set aside half the width of the dart to the right and left. Connect the edges of the dart with straight lines to a point on the auxiliary line, which is approximately 8 cm above the hip line.
Step 8
Erase the auxiliary vertical lines in the darts. Make the required seam allowances. The finished pattern can be transferred to the fabric.
