The American armhole is a very open armhole that is modeled by significantly reducing the length of the arm. It is often used in summer dresses, blouses and vests.
The American armhole should be modeled according to a special pattern-base of the blouse. The pattern must be made according to your size.
On the pattern of the front of the blouse, it is necessary to transfer the bust dart to the neckline. Then about two centimeters are laid from the shoulder along the neckline and a new line of the neckline of the front of the blouse is drawn along the pattern. From the waistline, 13 and 15 centimeters should be laid down. After that, draw the line of the bottom of the front along the pattern and cut along the line.
As for the American armhole on the back, it is much easier to model. You will need to set aside two centimeters from the shoulder along the neckline and draw the line of the American armhole along the back. Then shorten and expand the blouse along the bottom, draw a line along the pattern, rounding it a little. Don't forget to build the center fold of the back cuff.
It is necessary to cut out from a previously prepared knitted fabric: one part of the front of the blouse, two parts of the back of the blouse, cuffs of the front and back of the blouse. You should also cut out a strip of fabric to handle the neckline up to 15 centimeters wide. Please note that a blouse with an American armhole should only be sewn on an overlock with an elastic seam.
First you need to sew the side seams of the blouse together, remembering to process the seam allowances. Then, the cutouts of the American armhole of the back and front of the blouse are processed with an overlay seam. The middle backrest allowance must also be machined on the overlock. Sew the middle seam of the back with a knitted needle on a regular sewing machine. Press the allowances in different directions.
The bottom of the blouse should be gathered up to the length of the cuff, and the back and front cuffs should be sewn on the short sides. Be sure to fold them in half, facing out. Fold the cuffs over the bottom hem of the blouse, pin at the reference marks and sew on the overlock, stretching slightly. At the same time, you need to attach the cuff and process the allowances.
Fold the collar strip in two, facing inward and stitch along the meek sides, and then turn it over to the right side. It is recommended to gather the neckline of the front back a little and fold the neck of the front and back with a collar. Tie them in with an overstitching seam and trim off any excess fabric. Do not forget to process allowances. On the edges of the collar, you can also sew a ready-made ribbon from loops, and on the other side - small buttons to match. This is how you can learn how to sew a blouse with an American armhole.
