Not everyone can afford to fly in a real helicopter. But many people can make a working model of this aircraft. A homemade helicopter is able to bring considerable pleasure to both a child and any adult who dreams of height since childhood. So, we are preparing materials, tools and we are starting to create a flying model.
It is necessary
- - Styrofoam or cork;
- - wooden slats;
- - plywood;
- - knife;
- - file;
- - jigsaw;
- - sandpaper;
- - waterproof paint;
- - rubber;
- - glue.
Instructions
Step 1
Before proceeding with the design, draw a sketch of the future helicopter in three projections. This will allow you to clearly represent its outline and the location of the main nodes of the model.
Step 2
Use a piece of Styrofoam to make the model's fuselage. If no foam is available, use cork, balsa, or corn pith. A good fuselage will turn out from a dry linden block, which will have to be hollowed out from the inside. The fuselage consists of two halves symmetrical about the vertical axis. Provide slots in the fuselage for installing the propeller, and then glue the halves together.
Step 3
Finish the top of the propeller hole that is located at the top of the fuselage. It should be about 3 mm in diameter and match the thickness of the screw shaft. Drill the bottom of the hole to a depth of 20 mm with a 10 mm drill. The screw shaft ratchet will be located at the bottom.
Step 4
Install an inclined plate on the aft fuselage, which will prevent the model from rotating during flight. Make a plate from thin plywood or a piece of celluloid and glue it into the cut of the tail boom. The diameter of the plate should be about 25 mm.
Step 5
Make the chassis out of a regular rubber eraser. Make the landing gear legs from a duralumin plate or steel wire of a suitable diameter.
Step 6
Assemble the fuselage and then balance the tail and bow. To do this, hang the model on a strong thread, tying it to the main rotor shaft inserted into the fuselage. Cut the material from the heavier part with a knife or file. Another way of balancing is to glue a piece of lead onto the light part. After balancing, paint the fuselage with a bright waterproof paint.
Step 7
Make the propeller blades of plywood or tin. The tin rotor is easier to manufacture, but has slightly worse flight characteristics. When making a plywood screw, first cut three blades with a jigsaw using a prepared template. Then use a file to shape the blades to the desired shape. Make sure all blades are the same weight. Sand the blades with sandpaper and connect them together with the hub.
Step 8
Grind the main rotor shaft together with the ratchet or solder in two parts. The upper part is a metal rod with a length of 30-40 mm and a thickness of 3 mm, on which a thread for a nut is provided. The lower part is a tube of the same diameter with a rod, on which grooves for the ratchet should be cut.
Step 9
Make the handle of the trigger from a duralumin strip 20 mm wide and 1-2 mm thick. Make a drum from a wooden spool of thread. Glue a metal rod into the coil by connecting it to the coil with a cotter pin or rivet. At the bottom end of the rod, make an eyelet for attaching the elastic. At the other end, drill a hole into which to press in the stud that engages the ratchet.
Step 10
Before starting, slide the finished model onto the trigger shaft so that the pin engages in the ratchet slots. Take the trigger with your left hand, and with your right hand pull firmly on the string that has been wound around the drum. If everything is done correctly, the model will take off, with the direction of flight determined by the position of the model at the start. It is recommended to run the model in an open space or in rooms with high ceilings, such as a gym.
