Despite the dominance of trousers in women's wardrobe, skirts are still a must-have item in women's wardrobe. The process of creating a skirt can be divided into three stages - taking measurements, building a drawing of the base, and sewing a product.
How to take measurements
The final result depends on how accurately the measurements will be taken, that is, the correspondence of the product to the figure. Measurements are taken with a centimeter tape. Before taking measurements, a belt is tied at the waist. To build a basic pattern you need:
- waist half-girth - St;
- half-girth of the hips - Sat;
- product length - Du.
Measurements are taken from the full volume of the waist and hips, but when constructing the drawing, their half calculation is used.
During the design of the skirt, an allowance is made for a free fit, which provides comfort when moving. The amount of the increase depends on the properties of the fabric, fashion, physique. For thin and elastic fabric, the increments are made minimal, for dense fabric - more. For a figure with a large difference between the waist and hips, the increase in freedom of fit should be at least 2 cm.
Having taken the measurements, they proceed to the second stage of sewing - the construction of a drawing of a straight two-seam skirt. The drawing, as a rule, is built on graph paper, then transferred to a thick Whatman paper, the patterns are cut out - this will be the basic basis on which almost all models of skirts are cut.
How to cut fabric
Now start cutting the fabric. The finished pattern is laid out on the seamy side of the fabric, taking into account the location of the pattern, the size and symmetry of the cells and stripes, and the direction of the pile.
The layout of the patterns on the fabric begins with large parts - the front and rear panels, small parts are placed between them. The pattern is outlined with chalk, seam allowances are made and parallel lines are drawn. Then they outline the darts, mark the lines of the middle of the part, the hem of the bottom and control marks that will help to accurately connect the parts to each other. Cut out the details along the second line.
Sewing a skirt
Sewing of the product begins with a basting job - all the details are connected with a basting seam and a skirt is tried on. During the first fitting, corrections are made, the product is adjusted to the figure, the length is specified. Next, the basting seams are ripped open, the skirt is folded with the front sides inward, ironed, cleaved and the contours are corrected along the corrected lines.
Now they start processing the product. First of all, grooves are laid, the side and (if any) rear seams are grinded, wrapped. A zipper is sewn in, the slot is processed, the belt is stitched, the hem is hemmed.
