A pleated skirt can be sewn without patterns, and therefore it should start sewing with the correct calculation of the required amount of fabric. The type of fabric is also important, some are not influenced by the iron. In this case, it will be impossible to make folds.
The length of the fabric is taken from the calculation of the desired length of the skirt, to which you need to add an allowance for the hem of the bottom and for the design of the top. And the width for a pleated skirt is calculated by multiplying the volume of the hips by three, to which the seam allowance is added. At first glance, sewing such a skirt seems ruinous, but in reality everything is simpler, since the standard width of fabrics for skirts and dresses is 140-150 cm. Choosing a fabric that can be turned over without losing the beauty of the pattern or solid color, the length of the skirt, multiplied by two, can be more than enough. After purchasing and prewashing the fabric for shrinkage, the fabric is cut in half to obtain the desired width in two parts. This option is not suitable only for sewing long pleated skirts, since in these models the width may be a more economical option.
If we assume that 20 folds will be made on the skirt, and its width is 300 cm, for the calculation, 300 must be divided by 20. The resulting number 15 will be the width of one fold, the fabric on which will fold three times, which will give 5 cm at the output, and will be the total width of the skirt is 100 cm. This very approximate calculation is good for skirts with elastic, but for models with a rigid belt and a zipper, it should be more accurate. In this case, the basis will be taken not abstract 100 cm, but the real width of the hips. Such skirts can be strict office or bright festive, depending on the chosen fabric and length.
If, when calculating the folds, there is 2 cm or less for each, then the fabric is impregnated with a special fixer, thus obtaining a pleat.
The details of the sides are folded with the front sides and their side seams are sewn, then the edges of the sections are processed using an overlock or zigzag stitch. If desired, you can insert pockets into the side seams of the pleated skirt; this will require 4 identical parts. They are sewn to the details with the right side at the desired height. On the upper part of the skirt, markings are made for the folds, they are laid according to the markings and each is stabbed with two needles, at both ends.
The finished folds are smoothed from the inside with an iron, using gauze when working with certain fabrics.
First, the folds are sewn at a distance of 3 cm from the upper edge, and the next seam is located 3-4 cm lower from the first. Additionally, you can sew each pleat to a specific length at the end and at the beginning, giving the silhouette of the skirt an unusual way. After that, they grind the belt, folding the details with the front sides. After completing this line, the seam is ironed up and the inner part of the belt is bent. It is stitched from the front side, trying to get strictly into the seam between the skirt fabric and the belt so that the line is not visible. After stitching, the basting seam is removed and the belt is ironed again. A zipper is inserted into one of the side seams, a button is sewn, if necessary, and a welt or air loop is made for it. The hem is folded last. It is ironed twice - first, the seam is ironed out, and then - each fold along. All ironing work should be done from the wrong side.
