Patterns are usually included in fashion magazines. However, sometimes it is necessary to fit a standard pattern to the figure. It happens that you want to come up with a completely original outfit, which is not in the magazines. Therefore, it is better to have your own pattern that exactly matches your figure.
It is necessary
- - tape measure
- - graph paper or whatman paper
- - long ruler
- - square
- - protractor
- - pencil
Instructions
Step 1
Measure the shape. Measure the length of the item from the 7th vertebra to the waist. Holding a tape measure at your waist, measure the entire length of the garment. Write down both measurements and measure the width of your back. This is done in the center of the shoulder blades from the end of one shoulder to the end of the other. Measure the width of the chest from the right arm to the left. Measure the circumference of the chest, waist and hips, as well as the length of the sleeve. These measurements are usually denoted for short OG, OT or OB. To build a pattern, half-grips are needed, which, in turn, are designated POG, POT or POB. Remember these designations.
To determine the depth of the armhole to the length to the waist, add a semicircle of the chest. Divide the resulting amount by 4 and add 2.
You will also need the depth of the sprout, but it depends on the type of shape.
Step 2
Start building the pattern by creating a mesh. To do this, lay out a piece of Whatman paper or graph paper vertically and determine the starting point - usually it is in the upper left corner. Mark it with point a. Draw two straight lines through point a. The first is parallel to the top edge of the sheet of paper, the second is perpendicular. Set aside from point a to the right OG + 5cm. Extra centimeters will be needed for a free fit. Put a full stop with. On the vertical line, mark the length of the intended product. Designate the lower point with n. Draw a line through it parallel to the top line of the sheet. From point c, lower the perpendicular to the intersection with this line. Designate the intersection point n1.
The grid consists of several main lines. Determine your waistline. To do this, add 0.5 cm per sprout to the measurement of the length of the back to the waist and set aside this distance from point a. Put point t. From it, draw a perpendicular towards the left edge of the sheet, it will intersect the cn1 line and form the waist line. Set point t1.
Calculate the distance from your waist to your hips. To do this, divide the size of the back length to the waist by 2 and set the resulting distance from the waist line down. Place point b and draw a perpendicular through it to the side of the sheet until it intersects with line bn1. Designate the point as b1.
The result is a common mesh for the back and shelf patterns.
Step 3
Build a back pattern. To do this, from point a, set aside the size of the back width + 1.5 cm for a free fit and set point a1.
Step 4
Determine the width of the armhole. To do this, divide the GAP by 4 and set aside the resulting distance from point a. Put point a2. From points a1 and a2, lower the perpendiculars. Do not put off their length yet.
Determine the neckline. To do this, divide the NOS by 3, add 0.5 cm and set the resulting distance from point a to the right. Designate the resulting point a3.
Divide the SEW by 10 and set the resulting size +0.8 cm from point a3. Put point a4. Draw a perpendicular up from point a3. Subtract 0.3 cm from 1/10 NOSH and set the resulting distance perpendicular from point a3. Put point a5. Connect points a, a4 and a5 with a smooth line.
Step 5
Draw a line of shoulders. For a normal figure, from point a, set aside 2.5 cm on the sprout, 3.5 cm for a stooped figure, and 1.5 cm for a bent one. Put point p. Connect it to point a4. From point a4, set aside a distance equal to the length of the shoulder + 2 cm. Designate the resulting point as p1. On the a4p1 line, set aside 4 cm to the right and put point o. From this point, lay down 8 cm - this will be point o1. To the right of point o, set aside 2 cm and put point o2. Connect points o1 and o2. Measure the segment oo1 and set this dimension from the point o on the straight line passing through o2. Set point o3. Connect points o3 and p1 with a straight line.
Step 6
Determine the depth of the armhole. To do this, divide the POI by 4 and add 7 cm (for a normal figure; 6.5 cm for a kinky one or 7.5 for a stooped one) Set the resulting distance from point p downwards. Put the point g. Draw a line parallel to the top one on both sides and mark the resulting points as g2 and g3. To do this, measure the distance pg, add 2 cm to it, postpone this distance from point g and put point p2. Divide the armhole width by 10. Divide the corner at g in half. Add to 1/10 the width of the armhole 1.5 cm and set aside the resulting distance from point g. Put point p3. Divide the gg2 line in half and place the g4 point. Connect p1, p2, p3 and g4. Slice the front armhole
Divide POG by 4. Add 5 cm to the resulting size (for a normal figure, for a stooped and folded figure - 4, 5 and 5, 5 cm, respectively). Set aside the resulting amount from point g2 and add point p4. To the left of the resulting point, set aside 1/10 POG and set point p5. Divide the length of the segment g2p4 by 3, set the resulting size from the point g2 and put the point p6. Connect it with a dotted line to p5. Divide the dotted line in half and draw a perpendicular from the middle to the right. Along the perpendicular, set aside 1 cm. Divide the angle g2 in half and set aside 1/10 of the armhole width plus 0.8 cm along the bisector. Set point p7. Connect points p5, 1 cm, p6, p7 and g4.
Step 7
The cut of the neck of the shelf is constructed as follows. Divide the POG by 2 and add 1.5 cm. (For stooped figures, add 1 cm, for kinky figures - 2 cm) Set the resulting distance up from the point g3. Put point c1.
Set aside the same value from the point g2 upwards and put the point c2. Connect points c1 and c2. Take a size equal to 1/3 POSH, add 2 cm to it, set aside the resulting value from point c1 to the left and put point c3. Set the same distance down from the same point, put point c4 there. Connect c3 and c4 with a straight line and divide it in half. Draw a line from c1 through the dividing point and set aside 1/3 POSH +1 cm on it. Put point c5. Connect points c3, c5 and c4.
Step 8
Determine the points of the chest. The center of the chest is defined as follows. From the point g3, set the measurement of the center of the chest and put the point g6. Draw a line from it up to the intersection with c1c2. Put point c6. To define the high point of the chest from point c6, set aside the height of the chest and put the point g7.
Step 9
Determine the shoulder cut of the shelf and the undercut line. From point c6, set aside 1 cm down and put point c7. Connect it to point c3. Connect the points c7 and p5 with a dotted line. Take a measure of the length of the shoulder, subtract from it the lengths of the segment c3c7 and another 0.3 cm. Set aside the obtained value from point p5 to the right. Put point c8. Measure the segment g7c7 and plot the resulting value from the point g7 through c8. Put point c9. Connect points c9 and p5.
Step 10
Now is the time to define the lines of the side seams. To do this, divide the width of the armhole by 3 and set aside the resulting distance to the right of point g. Put the point g5. Draw a vertical line through it. At the intersection of this line with the line of the armhole, put a point r. At the intersection of it with the lines of the bottom, hips and waist - points t2, c2 and n2, respectively.
Step 11
Calculate the undercut along the waist line. Add 1 cm to the sweat for a loose fit. Subtract this measurement from the dress width along the waistline. This is a common solution. The mortar of the front recess is 1/4 of the total mortar. The side groove is 0.45 of the total mortar, and the back groove is 0.3.
Determine the width of the dress along the hips by adding 2cm to the FOB for the loose fit. Subtract the width of the dress along the bb1 line from this value. Distribute the result evenly between the shelf and the back. From point b2, set aside 1 cm to the left and to the right and mark points b3 and b4. From point t2 to the left and to the right, set aside half the mortar of the side dart and place t3 and t4. Connect point r with points t3 and t4. Connect points t3, b4, t4, b3 with a dotted line, divide the line in half, from the dividing points towards the side, set aside 0.5 cm and connect them with a smooth curve with points b3, t4 and the other side with b4 and t3.
Step 12
Determine the front waist and hip lines. From point c1 down, set aside the length of the front waist plus 0.5cm and put t5. Connect the points t4 and t5 with a smooth line. To determine the line of the hips from point b1, set aside the value of the segment t1, t5 and put b5. Connect points b5 and b3 with a smooth line.
Step 13
Calculate the undercut on the back. To do this, divide the distance gg1 in half, designate the division point g8. From it, lower the line down to the intersection with the line b, b1. At the intersections with the waistline and the hipline, put dots and mark them t6 and b6. From t6 to the left and to the right, set aside half the mortar of the back groove and place t7 and t8. From g8 down, set aside 1 cm from b6 and up set 3 cm. Connect these points to t7 and t8.
Calculate the dart on the shelf. To do this, draw down a line from point g6 until it intersects with line bb1. Mark the intersections with the waist and hip lines with points t9 and b7. From point t9 to the left and right, set aside half the mortar of the front recess. Label the resulting points as t10 and t11. From point g7 downward, and from point b7 upward, set aside 4 cm each, put points and connect them with t10 and t11.
Step 14
Determine the bottom line of the shelf. To do this, from points b3 and b4 draw two lines down to the intersection with the straight line nn1 and designate the resulting points as n3 and n4. From n1 downward, set aside the value of the segment t1t5 and set the point n5. Connect points n3 and n5.
