A miniature figurine representing a warrior or soldier has been known to the world since time immemorial. In the Middle Ages, with their help, they simulated the actions of military battles, teaching the military art of the heirs to the thrones and inspiring them to feats. Nowadays, tin soldiers are the pride of collectors and the object of the embodiment of the imagination of people who are fond of casting.
It is necessary
- - Plaster;
- - bismuth alloy;
- - clamps;
- - brush;
- - stack;
- - plasticine;
- - wire;
- - cyanoacrylate glue
Instructions
Step 1
Make a sketch. By making it, you will be able to decide which elements are best cast together, and which ones to execute separately and mount on the finished figurine. Use sculptural clay for the sketch, since it is harder and more refractory than the one intended for children's modeling.
Step 2
For the skeleton of the plasticine figurine, bend the wire frame. This will give the sculpture the correct proportions. Bend the aluminum wire so that the twisted section is equal to the height of the torso together with the head, and the ends that remain free correspond to the length of the lower limbs. Add another 2 cm to each leg.
Step 3
Attach your legs to a piece of wood to make the sculpture easier to sculpt. The figurine will look more natural with the hands molded and molded separately. The arm frame is a piece of wire bent at the elbow. Also, do not forget to leave a free piece of wire for the convenience of sculpting, for which you could hold the part.
Step 4
To make the wooden stack less sticky to the clay when sculpting, saturate it with hot machine oil. Gradually build up plasticine from different sides of the frame, cutting off the excess amount of material where necessary. As a result, the main elements should correspond as closely as possible to those conceived when examining the figure from any angle.
Step 5
Paying enough attention to the hands and face of the future tin soldier, do not forget to mark the elbows, knees, and wrists. These parts are contoured even under clothing. Sculpt the clothes as thin as possible so that the muscles of the character underneath it look more natural.
Step 6
Make a casting mold from vixinth or plaster. The first one is silicone rubber and helps to repeat the smallest details. The elasticity of the material allows the casting to be removed even when some of its parts are buried into the vertical surface of the mold. For tin casting, heat-resistant vixynths are most suitable.
Step 7
It is better to make a shape from two halves. Separate the model from the stand, use the tip of a knife to draw a parting line for the half of the mold. On a piece of glass, make a semblance of a cuvette, limiting the volume of the future form with a plasticine frame. Dissolve the gypsum using 1/3 of the powder and 2/3 of water. Pour the solution onto the glass. On the part of the mold that is ready to be dipped, apply plaster or vixinth with a brush. Submerge the model in the mortar up to the parting line and hold it if it tries to sink deeper until the plaster begins to set.
Step 8
Before you start pouring the other half, coat the release coat with grease until an even shine is formed on the surface. After removing the mold from the hardened plaster, refine it, noting the finer details. From the side of the legs of the future figure, cut a hole in the plaster for pouring metal and holes to remove air. Let the mold dry for a few days before casting.
Step 9
Pure tin is not used for casting, it is better to use bismuth alloys. Secure the molds with a clamp, heat the metal on the plate until a straw-colored film forms and pour into the mold. Finish the finished casting, imitating the smallest elements with fine engraving. Glue the individual parts to the figure with cyanoacrylate glue.
