The name of this wardrobe item comes from the English language, the jacket is a tracing of the word "pea-jacket" (pea is a kind of rough fabric, jacket is a jacket, jacket). The main features of the jacket, both for men and women, are a turn-down collar with lapels, decorative buttons on sleeves, side and chest pockets. For a better fit, jackets are sewn on a lining, so there are several peculiarities in the manufacture of this thing.
The choice of material and cutting of the jacket
For sewing a jacket, choose a fairly dense fabric that holds its shape well. Suit fabrics are suitable for this purpose: woolen and blended fabrics, as well as linen for summer models, thick silk for an evening version, and so on. You will need 2-2.5 m of fabric. In addition to the main material, you will need:
- 1, 5 - 1, 8 m of lining fabric;
- non-woven fabric;
- shoulder pads;
- 3 large and 9 small buttons;
- sewing accessories.
Choose a ready-made jacket pattern. Fold the fabric in half, right side in, and cut open. Position the patterns, taking into account the direction of the shared thread. Cut out the details, leaving at the same time 1.5 cm for the seams and 4 cm for the hem along the bottom of the sleeves and the bottom of the jacket along all the cuts. Cut out similar details from the lining, excluding the lapels.
The main stages of making a jacket
Stitch darts and raised seams on the shelves. Iron them towards the side cuts. Sew the middle seam on the back. To make the jacket look perfect, it is necessary to carefully heat all the seams. Do this through a damp iron (gauze or other cotton cloth will do).
Glue non-woven fabric to the tops of the flap, collar and hem. Fold the valve parts, one by one with non-duplicated non-woven and non-duplicated gasket, and grind their outer cuts. Cut the seam allowance close to the stitching and turn the pieces to the right side. Straighten the seam and sweep before heat treatment of the parts.
Then proceed with the design of the welt pockets. Fold the piece of paper in half with the right side out and baste it above the pocket markings on the shelf so that its fold coincides with the line. Sew the detail on a sewing machine. Then attach the valve and grind it.
Cut a shelf between the seams of the leaflet and the valve. Turn the leaf up, and the valve over the slot, iron the parts.
Sew one of the burlap parts to the seam allowances of the leaves, and the second to the valve allowances, turn them to the wrong side of the shelf. Bend the small triangles that you got when cutting the entrance to the pocket to the wrong side and stitch them on a piece of paper and burlap. Fold the burlap pieces and grind them.
Align the details of the front and back of the jacket and sew the shoulder and side seams. It is not necessary to process the sections with an overlapping seam.
Fold over the collar and sew on the outside. In this case, the upper collar should be a couple of millimeters wider than the lower one. This is necessary so that the corners of the collar do not bend up in the finished product. Turn the part right out. Flatten the seam thoroughly.
Place the collar between the jacket, piping and hem. Sweep and grind all the details on a typewriter. Turn the lapels right out. Turn the facing up and sew the seam allowances at a distance of 2-3 mm from the stitching. Unfold the piping down.
Finish the slots of the sleeves. Stitch the side seams. Along the bend, slightly fit both parts and sew them into the armholes. Bend the bottom to the wrong side and iron it.
Work the buttonholes along the slots, but do not cut them, connect the sleeve parts and sew 3 small buttons each. Sew the shoulder pads to the shoulder seams.
How to sew the lining
To keep the jacket in shape, it is imperative to put it on the lining. On the back along the line of the middle of the part, stitch a fold for a free fit at the top and bottom at a distance of 5 cm. Iron it.
Sew darts on the lining, sew side and shoulder seams, and stitch the detail to the hem and neckline. Then insert it into the top of the jacket with the wrong side to the wrong side of the garment. Fold up the hem of the sleeves and sew with blindstitch stitches by hand. Treat the bottom of the jacket in the same way.
Overcast the buttonholes on the left shelf for a man's model or on the right one for a woman's jacket. Sew flat buttons on the second half.