A slit pocket is one of the most popular pieces of clothing. It can be on a coat, dress, jacket, jacket and many other things. You need to sew it very carefully. Slit pockets are of several types. The most popular ones are “framed” and with a leaflet. Each has its own technological features that must be taken into account when sewing.
It is necessary
- - the product on which there will be a pocket;
- - 2 facing;
- - fabric for burlap;
- - pocket template;
- - scissors;
- - blade;
- - ruler;
- - pencil, chalk or soap;
- - sewing machine, needles, threads.
Draw a box for the pocket. It is a narrow long rectangle. Consider the thickness of the fabric. On a thick drape coat, make a frame wider; on a thin silk dress, it can be very narrow, only a few millimeters. Divide the short sides of the frame in half and connect the middle.
Cut out the piping. They are 2 strips of the same fabric from which the product is sewn. The width of each of them is about 3 cm, and the length of these strips is 3 cm longer than the slot in the pocket. It is necessary to cut them obliquely.
Cut out the halves of the burlap. These are 2 rectangles, the long sides of which are equal to the long sides of the trim. The width depends on the desired depth of the pocket, but in any case, one half is 3 cm shorter than the other.
Fold the piping in half lengthwise with the right side out. Align the long cuts. Press on the fold line. If the fabric cannot be ironed, baste one half near the centerline.
Place the top piping over the frame of the pocket, aligning the cut with the middle line. The front sides of both parts are in contact with each other, the fold line is above the frame. Baste the strip along the seam line, that is, along the long side of the frame. Overcast and baste the bottom hem. Stitch on the stripes. Make the stitch as straight as possible.
Mark the lines for the oblique cuts. Set aside 0, 7-1 cm on each side of the middle line of the frame and connect these points with straight lines with its corners. You will have 2 small isosceles triangles. Make a long, straight cut between the midline vertices of these triangles. Then cut oblique lines from the ends of the straight cut to the corners, not reaching about 0.1 cm. It is most convenient to do this with a blade. The scissors are too thick for such an operation.
Turn out the piping through the long cut to the wrong side of the part. The free edge of the upper strip is directed upward, and the lower one, respectively, downward. Align and straighten the corners. Secure each with a double bartack. It is perpendicular to the long cut. Pull out the basting
Place the template in the seams. Press the pocket inside out. This must be done through a damp cotton cloth. The fabric is desirable white, since the colored one can shed.
Baste and stitch the narrower part of the burlap to the bottom piping, and the wider part to the top. Press on the seams. Stitch the burlap cuts. Start at the top edge, then sew the side, bottom and second side cut. Fasten the edges of the seam with bartacks. Overlock the cuts or overcast by hand. This is not necessary for a lined product.
To make a pocket with a leaflet, first cut out the leaflet itself. Its shape depends on the style. It is made from two parts. Reinforce the leaflet with adhesive interlining, fold in half along the middle line, sweep and trim short cuts.
Cut off the allowances, leaving 0, 1-0, 2 cm. Cut the corners obliquely. Turn the leaf out. Rewind the seam inside out and press. Stitch off a piece of paper. Depending on the thickness of the fabric, this is done with one or two upper threads.
Draw a frame. The upper side is 0.75 cm shorter than the lower side at each edge. Sew the outline of the frame with a snare.From the front side, baste the leaf so that its ends are exactly opposite the ends of the lower cut of the frame. The leaf "looks" down, and its allowances - up. Fold 1 piece of burlap and main piece right sides together. Burlap "looks" up, its allowance - down. Baste both details along the horizontal lines of the frame. First sweep the leaf, then the burlap.
Place the second piece of burlap with the front side on the piece of paper. It is located in the same way as the first half, that is, with an allowance downwards, and with a free edge upwards. Baste this detail as well. Sew the burlap on the seamy side, at the same time stitching along the edge of the leaflet. Fasten the edges with bartacks. Cut out the center line of the frame. The incisions should end 1 cm from the seams. Make oblique cuts to the corners.
Unscrew the leaflet, and turn the burlap on the wrong side. Process the triangles in the same way as for making a framed pocket. Sweep and stitch both pieces of the burlap.