The process of making clothes with your own hands involves several stages, one of which is designing a pattern. Of course, you can use ready-made patterns from sewing magazines or cut out patterns thanks to a special computer program. But with a non-standard shape or original design of the product, it is impossible to avoid constructing a new or correcting a finished pattern.
It is necessary
- - tracing paper;
- - meter, ruler, mold;
- - a simple pencil.
Instructions
Step 1
Before making a pattern for a jacket, take measurements from the figure. For outerwear, you will need the following parameters: chest girth (OG), hips girth (OB), waist girth (OT), chest width (SH), back width (SH), shoulder width (SH), back length to waist (DS), product length (DI), sleeve length (DR).
Step 2
Build a mesh for future patterns. In the upper left corner, mark the starting point for the middle of the back. To the right of the point, draw a horizontal segment equal to half of the OB plus a margin for a free fit. Draw a vertical downward equal to the length of the product. On a vertical segment, mark the waist line with dots, draw a horizontal line through the mark. Draw the armhole lines as follows: the depth is equal to 2/3 of the distance from the upper border of the mesh to the waist; draw the width after the designation on the diagram of the values of SHG and AL.
Step 3
Start creating a pattern. For the neck of the back, from the starting point, draw a rectangle 1.5x5 cm, the lower right corner of which is rounded. Draw the neck of the shelf from a 5x6 cm rectangle, round the bottom left corner.
Step 4
Lower the line of the shoulders of the back and the shelves by 2.5 cm from the upper segment, slightly wrap the armholes on the mesh, draw the border of the shoulder. Draw the armholes using the "droplet" pattern, the vertices should make a right angle with the shoulder lines.
Step 5
Draw the sleeve pattern using two perpendicular straight lines, marking on them the width of the sleeve, the height of the ridge, equal to 6 centimeters, the length and width of the sleeve along the bottom edge. With the help of a template, draw an ridge of the sleeve equal to the length of the armhole. For accuracy of calculations, be guided by the pattern of the shelf and back. Make a cuff pattern or add an elastic allowance to the sleeve pattern.
Step 6
Draw a collar or hood pattern depending on the jacket model. For the collar, draw a rectangle, the length of which is equal to the circumference of the neck, the width is 6 cm, round the outer corners of the collar. For the hood, measure from the base of the neck through the head and from the forehead to the 7th cervical vertebra. Focusing on these data, draw a pattern for the hood, make a dart in the back of the head. Perform the same pattern for pockets, plackets, belts and other additional elements.
