Do you want dress pants to fit your figure perfectly? Build a pattern according to your measurements. If you follow the instructions step by step, then an excellent result is guaranteed. And besides, using the base pattern, you can design many other models of trousers: bell bottoms, breeches, bananas and so on.
It is necessary
- - tape measure;
- - a large sheet of paper (a piece of wallpaper or whatman paper);
- - ruler;
- - pencil;
- - scissors.
Instructions
Step 1
Take measurements. To construct a pattern for classic trousers, you will need: half-girth of the waist, half-girth of the hips and the length of the product.
Step 2
Start by building a pattern for the front of the pants. On a large piece of paper (this could be a piece of unnecessary wallpaper or a Whatman paper) draw a right angle. Designate its top with point T. From it, lay down the measure of the length of the product, designate this point with the letter N.
Step 3
Draw a straight line from point H perpendicular to line TH to the right. Set aside 1/2 the measurement of the half-girth of the hips plus 1 cm down from point T. Mark the point with the letter B. Next, from point B, set aside 1/2 measurements of the half-girth of the hips plus 0.5 cm to the right, mark the point as B1.
Step 4
To plot the width of the seat, set aside 1/10 of the measurement of the half-girth of the hips to the right of point B1 and set point B2. Draw up from point B a straight line parallel to the TB line, mark the point at the point of their intersection with T1. Set aside from point B1 upwards a segment equal to the value of segment B1B2. Connect the points with a smooth line, as shown in the pattern drawing.
Step 5
Now draw the ironing line. To do this, divide the width of the seat (this is a segment B1B2) in half. Then divide in half the segment from the division point to point B and put point B3. Draw a dotted line down and up from point B3 parallel to the TH line.
Step 6
Set aside to the right of point H a segment from 4 to 6 cm. Connect points 4-6 and B. From the ironing line, set aside to the right a segment equal to the value from point 4-6 to the ironing line, and set point H1. Connect points H1 and B2.
Step 7
Now proceed with the design of the waist line of the trousers. Set aside 1 cm from point T1. Connect points 1 and T.
Step 8
Calculate the depth of the darts. To do this, measure the value of the segment T1B1. Subtract 1/2 the measurement of the waist half-girth from the obtained value. Subtract 0.5 cm from the resulting difference and distribute to the front and side and front darts. For example, the segment T1B1 is 7.5 cm, therefore 7, 5-0.5 = 7 cm, 7cm / 2 = 3.5 cm. So, the depth of the undercuts will be 3.5 cm.
Step 9
Set aside the resulting value along the waist line to the right of point T. Form the dart with a smooth line. Further from the ironing line, set aside to the right and left half the depth of the tuck (fold): 3.5/2 = 1.75 cm.
Step 10
Build a pattern for the back of the pants. To do this, set aside 1/10 of the measurement of the half-girth of the hips plus 3 cm to the right of point B2, designate the point as B4.
Step 11
Divide segment B2B4 in half. From the resulting point, set aside 1 cm down. Then set aside along the waistline to the left of point T1 1/10 part of the measurement of the half-girth of the hips and put point t. Connect points 5, 2, and t (point p1).
Step 12
Divide the segment p1 5, 2 in half. Set aside to the right at a right angle from the division point 0.5 cm. Connect the points p1 0, 5, 5, 2, B2, 1, B4 with a smooth line.
Step 13
In order to form the line of the waist of the trousers, draw a straight line of arbitrary length from point T to the left. Draw from point p1 to the left a line equal to 1/2 the measurement of the half-girth of the waist plus 7 cm, and put point p2.
Step 14
Calculate the depth of the darts on the back half of the pants. Measure the segment t1t2, subtract 1/2 measurements of the waist half-girth from the resulting value. Distribute the resulting difference minus 1 cm (for the fit) on the two back darts in the same way as for the front of the trousers.
Step 15
Divide the segment t1t2 into three parts. Set aside 10 cm (the length of the darts) from the dividing points down at right angles to the t1t2 line (the length of the darts), and to the left and right - 1.5 centimeters each (this is the depth of the darts). Then connect points 1, 5; 10 and 1, 5.
Step 16
Along the bottom line, set aside 1-2 cm (as you wish) to the right of the H1 point. Connect points p2, 1-2 with a straight line. To design the line of the step seam, connect points B4, 1-2. Divide this line in half. Set aside from the dividing point at a right angle to the left 3 cm.
Step 17
Connect the points B4, 3, 1-2 with a smooth line, as shown in the drawing. The basic pattern for classic trousers is ready.
