A talent for sewing is inherent in every woman, but not everyone has free time to thoroughly understand the construction of the drawing. A long list of measurements and their subsequent transfer to paper can scare an inexperienced needlewoman, so it's better to start with lighter clothing options that do not need patterns. One of them is a skirt made of gussets.
It is necessary
- - tailor's centimeter;
- - paper;
- - ruler;
- - pencil;
- - a piece of fabric;
- - sewing machine.
Instructions
Step 1
Unlike a straight skirt, a skirt made of wedges does not require calculating the depth of the darts, all its elements are the same and represent an isosceles trapezoid. To sew it, you need to take only four measurements: the girth of the waist and hips, the distance between them, the length of the product. The waist circumference is measured along the line of the future belt, if it is underestimated, then the tailor's centimeter should be placed at the desired level. The second measurement is taken at the widest part of the thighs along the protruding side bones. If, during the measurements, these places are marked with a thread, then the third digit will be obtained without difficulty, it is enough just to apply the zero division of the ruler to the waist and find the distance to the hips. The length of the skirt is the distance from the waistband to the bottom of the skirt.
Step 2
The number of wedges can be different: 4, 6 or 8. The ideal combination of a good fit and a minimum of seams would be the number six, but in this case the zipper will only be on the side. Since all elements are identical to each other, it is better to make a single semblance of a pattern for them on paper. This is not a full-fledged drawing, because every student is capable of drawing a trapezoid, you do not need to think about darts and increments, as well as display complex parallels and perpendiculars.
Step 3
The upper edge of the trapezoid is a part of the waist and is calculated very simply: the waist circumference is divided by the number of gussets. For example, 60 cm / 6 = 10 cm. Further, from its middle, a line is drawn down - height - and the distance to the hips and the length of the product are laid on it. The width of the hips is also calculated by dividing by the number of wedges: 90 cm / 6 = 15 cm. 7.5 cm from the vertical - and the extreme points are ready. Then you should use a long ruler, connecting the waist with the hips and drawing the side edges of the trapezoid all the way to the edge of the product.
Step 4
If the skirt is sewn from thin, summer fabric: chiffon, viscose, spatula, then its seams form soft folds. However, crepe, denim, tweed and corduroy wedges will crimp, so you need to trim them before sewing. To do this, the lateral sides of the trapezoid, laid diagonally from the waist to the hips, should turn below into verticals up to the bottom of the product. Such a skirt will look more like a straight one, but with a wedge cut and is good for its versatility, because it is easy to sew on it loose items for a summer wardrobe, and strict office, and warm winter ones. The paper sketch is cut out and, with the help of a piece of soap, transferred to the fabric, taking into account the seam allowances of about a centimeter. The sides are sewn on a typewriter, a zipper is sewn into one seam, the bottom is hemmed.
