Probably everyone remembers Andersen's tale of the steadfast tin soldier. The master made a soldier with whom so many interesting events happened from a tin spoon. Now finding a tin spoon is problematic. But you can still cast tin soldiers with your own hands, and using almost the same technology that was used by the fabulous master. Collectible soldiers are still cast in this way, but it is quite suitable for making toys. This method will require some skill in cutting or sculpting with wax.
It is necessary
- - tin solder "tretnik";
- - wax or paraffin;
- - matches;
- - a sharp knife;
- - gypsum powder or alabaster;
- - gas burner or kerosene stove;
- - porcelain or aluminum crucible;
- - plastic cups for yoghurt;
- - thin rope or twine;
- - water;
- - nippers;
- - a set of files;
- - dry dense cloth;
- - hard brush;
- - rags.
Make a soldier figure out of wax or paraffin. It can be done in several ways. The toy soldier can be cut out, for example. This is usually done with a sharp knife or special graters. Sometimes a tool slightly heated in hot water is used.
Prepare the toy soldier for casting in plaster. First you need to make sure that excess air comes out of the mold when pouring. Turn the wax blank over with the stand up. See where the tops of the casting are forming. Vertices are "pockets" in which air will accumulate during casting. Usually these are protruding parts that, in the normal position of the workpiece, look down (items of clothing, weapons, etc.).
Take matches and sharpen them with pegs. Stick the tips of the pegs into an inverted wax blank, into possible air pockets so that they rise above the level of the base by at least 1 cm. On the base of the stand, glue a stick of such length with wax that it rests on the edges of the yogurt glass, and the upper part of the figure suspended in this way did not touch the bottom. Hang the figure.
Dilute gypsum or alabaster to a liquid sour cream and pour into a glass flush with the base of the casting. Pouring must be done along the edge of the glass neatly and evenly so that air bubbles do not form.
When the plaster has hardened, remove all sticks, including the one on which the figurine was hanging. Let the form dry completely by taking it out of the glass. After that, heat the mold slightly over the stove and pour out the melted wax or paraffin from it.
Place the mold back in the glass to dry thoroughly. Cut 3-4 pieces of rope about 1 m long. Tie pieces of rope to the edges of the glass at different locations. Holes can be made in the rim of the glass for this. Tie the free ends of the ropes together so that the glass suspended by the knot is in a strictly vertical position. Place the glass on the table, and put the rope next to it so that the top of the glass is open without the rope getting tangled.
In a crucible, melt the required amount of solder. There should be a little more of it than is required for the figure. Pour the molten solder into the hole in the base of the figure so that the metal rising along them can be seen from the air vapors. In this case, the wax remaining in the mold will flow out, smoke and may even catch fire. You can extinguish it by throwing a dry rag on top. Immediately lift the cast form on the knot of the rope and quickly roll it 4-5 times over your head. As a result, the tin will completely fill the entire mold.
Leave the mold alone and let it cool. After the mold has cooled, break the plaster of Paris with a few short, sharp hammer blows. Clean the remaining plaster from the figurine. Use nippers to remove the sprues formed in the air channels, and carefully clean the removal points with a small file.Finally clean the resulting figurine with a stiff brush and water and wipe it dry with a rag. Further, the surface of the soldier can be lightly greased with machine oil or painted.