Silk outfits do not need decorative delights - the flowing delicate fabric is beautiful in itself. However, not every seamstress can work with this capricious material: it slips, fragile seams tend to unfold, ugly assemblies and puffs appear on the surface of the canvas … Before sewing silk, you need to carefully study all the subtleties of tailoring. For a start, it is better to choose a simple pattern of loose-fitting clothing. Prepare all the necessary tools, materials and accessories and start creating.
It is necessary
- - a cut of natural silk;
- - warm water and a spacious basin;
- - detergent for delicate fabrics;
- - iron;
- - drawing (preferably a model) of the future product;
- - tailor's meter;
- - paper, pencil and scissors;
- - lining material;
- - a cut of a non-slip cloth;
- - pins;
- - tailor's scissors;
- - thin needles (No. 60-75);
- - silk and cotton threads (Nos. 50 and 65);
- - a sewing machine with a conveyor (adjustable foot);
- - overlock;
- - paper;
- - additionally: gelatin, non-woven, armpits.
Instructions
Step 1
Soak a silk cloth in warm water with a special detergent for delicate fabrics. Place the cut in a spacious container in neat layers so that no creases are formed. After 2-3 hours, rinse the silk thoroughly in clean water and shake it well over the bathtub. Dry by straightening all the wrinkles. Then iron it by setting the appropriate iron mode. Be careful not to stretch the canvas! Now there is no need to be afraid of unexpected shrinkage of the finished product.
Step 2
Consider the future look of your silk outfit. Stylists advise not to overload it with complex details and complicate the cut lines. It is recommended to keep things free. If you have chosen a fitting silhouette, cut out the lining separately - it will hide the seam allowances, and the product will fit better. The lining material should be dense but breathable. For example, silk based on 100% cotton.
Step 3
Cut silk on a thick linen (linen or cotton) mat to help it slide less on the table. Make the pattern of the main parts (front, back, skirt) necessarily along the linear line (that is, along the main thread of the fabric, parallel to the edge). If the model provides for a stand-up collar, the material for it can be cut obliquely.
Step 4
Pin the pieces along the cut line with pins so they don't crawl under your hands. Do not cut two layers of silk fabric at the same time - no matter how carefully you act, they will creep. To prevent the edge of silk parts from going into terry, some needlewomen use the so-called "zigzag" scissors, designed specifically for tailoring.
Step 5
Iron the allowances (they should be standard - 1.5 cm) of the cut parts of the product along the fold line, so that the sewing line goes smoother when sewing. The seams must then be swept by hand using silk threads (# 65) and a very fine needle. You can use special needles for problematic fabrics (recommended number - from 60 to 75). Thicker ones will leave holes in the capricious silk that cannot be hidden after removing the auxiliary thread! Little secret: cuts on light silk can be made stronger by smearing them with diluted gelatin and ironing them through a white paper sheet.
Step 6
Sew the silk garment with short stitches (up to 2 mm). It is good if the tool is equipped with a conveyor, as it provides a good attachment of the feet. If your sewing machine does not have such a device, make sure that the pressure of the foot is well regulated. In addition, you will need an overlock for processing the cuts on silk (double hemming on a thin canvas looks artisanal).
Step 7
Thread the sewing machine with cotton thread # 50 - you will use it to sew the main joining seams. For processing the bottom edge and eyelets for fastening, you can use a silk thread - it is almost invisible on the "face" of the product. When working with silk, learn some other rules as well:
- after stitching and overlocking the edges of the seam allowances, iron the sewn strip of fabric to one side;
- never put a seam across the pins, so as not to perforate the silk;
- when stitching cut parts, it is recommended to put a thin sheet of paper under the seamy side;
- thin adhesive interlining can be used to duplicate the working fabric;
- deterioration of natural silk due to sweat can be prevented by sewing underarms to the armholes of the sleeves. These semi-circular cotton pieces can be purchased from the sewing accessories department and sewn by hand: one part goes into the bottom of the armhole, the other is sewn to the allowance by hand.
Step 8
Finally, sew the lining and stitch to the base fabric, wrong side to side.
