A real katana, being a samurai weapon, is made from certain types of iron, forged in several layers. But modern katanas are usually forged from spring steel. Therefore, the sharpening of Japanese remake swords has its own characteristics.
It is necessary
- - katana;
- - stones for sharpening;
- - electric emery;
- - marker;
- - protective glasses.
Instructions
Step 1
Take the sword in hand and mentally divide the blade into three parts. The upper part will require the sharpest sharpening (it will cut), the middle - sharpening at a large angle (it will bear the load upon impact) and, finally, the lower part, which is closest to the guard, is sharpened minimally (it actually does not bear the load) … Mark these parts with a marker.
Step 2
First, create the blade with a minimum sharpening. To do this, turn on the electric emery, put on your safety goggles, wait about one minute for it to fully unwind, and bring the tip of the sword to it perpendicularly. With a light movement, without pressing the blade tightly against the emery disk, slide the sword from right to left, then turn it over and slide it from left to right. Repeat the procedure until you can clearly feel a sharp corner on the cutting edge with your finger. The same effect can be achieved by driving a sharpening stone over the blade, but this will take much more time and effort.
Step 3
Now sharpen the top of the blade. Bring the katana to the emery again, place the blade flat on the disc. Tilt it so that the cutting edge lightly touches the rotating blade. Move the blade from the tip to the mark of its middle part with movements from left to right and from right to left. This will reduce the sharpening angle.
Step 4
Sharpen the middle of the blade. The sharpening angle should be 40-45 °. Drive the blade over the emery, pressing it tightly against it - from the middle mark to the lower mark in the manner described above, until you achieve the required sharpening angle. Do the same with the lower part of the blade. Sharpness is not so important here, so a 50 ° angle will be enough (but no one forbids you to make it smaller). The sharpening of the lower part should end 2-3 cm from the guard (it will be difficult to sharpen further, and the guard can be peeled off easily).
Step 5
Now bring the sword to the desired sharpness with the sharpening stones. First, run them evenly along the entire length of the blade to remove any irregularities. Then purposefully sharpen each part with sharp, short strokes, starting from the bottom.
