The realism of the military-historical model largely depends on how correctly it is aged. The goal of the master is to give the car: a military vehicle, a tank, a ship, an airplane - the look of actually being used, participating in hostilities. The correct approach is to come up with a "legend" for each specific model: when it was produced, how long it was used, in what conditions. Such a "legend" will guide you in what degree of wear to give the model.
It is necessary
- - a piece of foam rubber;
- - thin brush;
- - pliers;
- - soldering iron;
- - dental drill;
- - model putty;
- - sandpaper;
- - washes;
- - enamel color "rust";
- - white, gray, green paints;
- - cotton swabs.
First of all, display the damage that the machine may have received during normal use. In combat vehicles, thin-walled parts are most susceptible to damage: fenders, tool boxes, trunks, mud flaps. If necessary, use sandpaper to thin the part and then gently deform it. Dents are made with a hard, but not sharp object. Curves are formed with pliers.
Make holes from the shells with a soldering iron. Note that the soldering iron must be held parallel to the work table and not perpendicular to the model surface to obtain a realistic hole. Make dents with a dental drill. They need to act carefully so as not to make a through hole. Simulate the molten metal around holes and dents using a model putty.
Create a faded paint effect. To do this, add 10-15% white paint to the base color and apply to the painted model. At the same time, paint the surface unevenly, focus on those areas of the model that should be most exposed to sunlight (protruding parts and horizontal surfaces).
Scratch and chip with brown paint. Dip a small piece of foam sponge into the paint, wring out or otherwise remove excess paint, and then gently touch the model with the sponge in those places where you want to show chips. With the same paint, using a thin brush, apply specks representing chips in those places where it is necessary, for example, along the perimeter of the part. Sponge spots are random and therefore look very natural, and brush-painted chips are located where you need it. It is the combination of these two techniques that creates the desired effect.
Imitate old dirt with a dark brown, dark gray or black wash. Fill all grooves and depressions on the model with wash. For more expression, use a washer in two colors, such as dark brown for grooves and black for fine details. Remove excess wash with a cotton swab.
To create a rusty effect, use a special enamel (produced by various manufacturers). Work with the dry brush technique. Please note that there cannot be too much rust on combat-ready vehicles.
Follow the traces of dirty grease with a dense black remover, to which add a little gray and green paint.