The hidden zipper looks very good in the finished product - if it is sewn in correctly, it is not visible at all. In some products, the fasteners spoil the whole look, and apart from this kind of zippers, nothing fits.
The very name of this lightning suggests that its location should not be determined at first glance. But this does not mean that you can not choose the zipper by color - it must be chosen as close as possible to the color of the fabric of the product. This is due to the fact that the slider will still remain outside, and its color is similar to the color of the zipper tape, and the product should also look flawless from the inside.
When sewing from light fabrics, the darker zipper will show through, taking into account all these factors, the color of the zipper and the fabric should still match.
Many lessons recommend stitching a hidden zipper into the garment before the seam where the zipper is located, which means when the fabric cuts are completely open. But this is fraught with errors in the accurate execution of the seam above or below the zipper cut, since the height of the cuts may not match. Therefore, it is much more convenient, especially for beginners, to sew a zipper last in an already finished seam. The required seam must first be stitched and overcasting its edges, using an overlock or zigzag seam, after which the edges of the seam are ironed out. Before ironing, the cut under the fastener with small stitches is swept or cleaved with needles, as a continuation of the seam of the product, getting the exact line of the zipper stitching. Basting stitches and needles are removed after ironing and fixing the fabric in position.
The zipper itself should be 1, 5-2, 5 cm longer than the fastener. If the length of the fastener is standard, then to resolve this issue, you can slightly change the length of the zipper cut on the product up or down. Before sewing on the fastener, the product is turned on the wrong side and laid out on the work table. The concealed zipper is opened all the way and the side of the tape is folded face to face with one of the cut allowances. With correct sewing, when the braid lies on the allowance, the edges of its teeth and the ironed edge of the cut completely coincide. One side of the braid is marked to the allowance, but only to it, and not to the entire product through and through.
The beginning of the zipper links, which is usually 1-1.5 cm lower than the beginning of the tape itself, should be located from the top of the product at a distance equal to the width of the allowance along the upper edge of the product with an addition of 1 mm.
It is more convenient to baste in the middle of the braid, taking care that there are good bartacks at the beginning and end of the basting stitch, since only this fact can guarantee that the zipper will not shift when the seam is sewn on a typewriter. At the top of the cut, the basting should end exactly at the level of the cut. It is on the basting thread that it is most convenient to navigate where to stop the needle of the machine when stitching in a zipper.
The second side of the tape is sewn to the second allowance of the cut for the fastener in the same way, but it is more convenient to do it in the opposite direction, this time starting the seam from the side of the zipper slider. This helps to avoid unevenness at the top of the cut. The fabric of the cut when stitching the tape should not be stretched or gathered, unless specifically specified by a specific pattern, since the fabric will lie unevenly, with bumps and folds.
To check the correctness of insertion, the fastener is closed, the product is turned on the face, tried on and the result is evaluated. If irregularities are found, you need to cut the threads and re-insert the zipper. For stitching, a special foot is required, which is used for this particular operation. One edge of this foot is open, and on this side the spiral of the braid should be located as close to the needle as possible. When sewing, you need to make sure that the seam does not move to the side, but stops and bartacks exactly in the place where the basting ended. Then the basting is removed, the product is turned inside out and the result of the work done is evaluated, with good performance, the thing is ironed and prepared for wearing.
