Recently, furniture made of solid wood and epoxy resin has been very popular. Each type of wood has a special pattern, and the epoxy resin coating creates a sense of the depth of the pattern, reveals the texture of the wood.
In addition, epoxy perfectly protects wood from moisture and mechanical damage.
When choosing wood for filling with resin, it is necessary to pay attention not only to the texture of the wood, but also, which is especially important, to the percentage of moisture content of the material. The use of well-dried wood is a guarantee of beauty and a long service life of the future product. The moisture content of wood for furniture should be in the range of 6-8%.
It is best to pay attention to hardwood, fruit tree species.
If you want to cut costs, you can also choose conifers, for example pine. The wood of coniferous trees must be degummed before pouring with resin.
The previously sanded surface is treated with a solvent using a brush. The solvent penetrates approximately 1 to 2 mm. We leave it for a while so that the wood dries (from 15 minutes to several hours, depending on the selected solvent) Which solvent can be used for resin removal: - alcohol - acetone-white spirit - turpentine nitro-solvent
The next important step is priming!
You can prime it with the same resin. We choose a liquid polymer, with a life time of at least 3-5 hours, like EpoxyDesign, for example. This is necessary so that the resin has time to be absorbed into the wood. Warm wood absorbs polymer better. We prime with a brush, it can be the most inexpensive, the main thing is that the pile does not come out of it. Such a primer will provide us with clogging of all open pores and from them, during further pouring, air bubbles will not rise. After the primer layer has polymerized, you can proceed to pouring.
Filling is usually carried out in 2-3 layers. The approximate consumption of resin is 1 sq. with a layer thickness of 1 mm, 1.2 kg of resin is required. The formwork can be made from masking tape. It adheres well to wood and does not leak, which will prevent smudges at the ends. If the potting resin is liquid enough and with a long pot life, air bubbles will come out on their own. It is possible to speed up the process of the release of bubbles with a construction hairdryer or a gas burner - slightly heating the surface of the resin, this will remove the surface tension and allow all the bubbles to escape.
Light sanding is required between coats to remove the invisible amine film that impairs adhesion or remove lumped dust. If the work is done carefully, then the finishing layer will not need polishing, the resins, most often, have a very good gloss.
I wish you success and creative inspiration!
