The most important condition for getting healthy and flowering plants is an attentive, thoughtful and caring attitude towards them.
Often, flower growers, especially beginners, are faced with such a problem: the violet does not want to bloom. Experienced violet growers indicate among the main reasons:
1.depleted or, conversely, soil saturated with fertilizers;
2. unregulated watering (waterlogging of the soil or its regular drying out);
3. wrong light mode;
4. the volume of the pot is larger than the specific plant needs.
If you have not seen your violet blooming for a long time, check the conditions of its keeping for all four points. First, remember the last time you transplanted the plant. Some experts advise changing the land every 3-6 months, depending on the size of the pot (the smaller, the more often). Also, a transplant is required if you notice that the soil has acidified due to constant waterlogging.
It is not scary to pour a violet once, but from regular overflow, the plant begins to wither, because the roots do not have time to "breathe air". This situation can arise if the soil is not loose enough or drainage is poorly arranged. There is no need to explain too much about underfilling - it is clear that without water the plant dries up.
A good balance of trace elements in the soil is also required: consider whether your fertilization is suitable for the plant. The stores sell fertilizers made specifically for flowering plants.
Violations of the light regime are also possible for various reasons. If the violet is experiencing an acute lack of light, you can understand this by the appearance of the leaves. For example, they may fade over time or grow too long petioles. Excess light affects the shape of the rosette - the central young leaves grow crowded, do not straighten out as they grow. In any case, you need to change the lighting conditions.
Sometimes this is also possible: two violets stand side by side, on the same windowsill or rack, receive the same amount of light (sunlight or artificial), but at the same time one of them blooms well, and the other - weakly or does not bloom at all. We'll have to experiment a little: move the capricious plant away from the light source, or, conversely, move it closer.
If you checked the conditions for keeping violets on the first points and did not find problems with soil, watering and lighting, it remains to check the flower pot. If the violet is young, then she tries to master her "living space" first. And only then, perhaps, it will bloom. Perhaps he will not, he will be engaged in breeding stepchildren, if the size of the pot allows. And from time to time it will bloom weakly. For violets, flowers are just one of the methods of reproduction, no better and no worse than pinching.
There are hardly any reasons on your windowsill that will make the violet choose exactly reproduction through flowering. There are no butterflies that will pollinate the flowers, it is unlikely that someone constantly picks off the leaves and creates stress for the plant. In such conditions and in the presence of a sufficient area of the pot, the young violet prefers reproduction through pinching. If it is a little cramped in the pot, the plant will bloom more readily, because stepchildren are “contenders” for land and food.
With a pot volume of 200-300 ml, an adult standard violet will bloom more readily. For very young violets, pots are even less suitable. If you have rooted a stalk and it is still only forming a rosette with small leaves, then it is better to build a temporary homemade pot from scrap materials. For example, you can use disposable plastic cups - if you cut them and make drainage holes at the bottom, you can get pots with a volume of 50-100 ml.
It is better to cut the drainage holes with scissors so that they are large enough, and the irrigation water flows freely and does not stagnate. It is better to insert such a homemade pot into a beautiful planter - it will allow you to maintain the desired level of temperature and humidity.
One more tip. If the violets are on the windowsill and it is cool enough there in winter, you can water them with very warm boiled water. Add to the water the fertilizer that you usually use, but more often and in a smaller proportion than indicated on the label. This trick often allows you to see flowers on a plant even in winter.
Regularly (at least once every two to three days) inspect your plants and check if everything is in order: there are no diseased leaves that need to be removed, whether it is necessary to water or, conversely, dry the soil in a pot.
