How To Make A Robot Yourself

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How To Make A Robot Yourself
How To Make A Robot Yourself

Video: How To Make A Robot Yourself

Video: How To Make A Robot Yourself
Video: How to Turn Yourself Into a Robot | VFX MASTERCLASS (C4D, AE, Octane) 2024, April
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In science fiction films, humanoid robots are usually depicted, which are also called androids. But robots don't have to be human. Each of them has its own purpose. A robot that you can make with your own hands mimics the behavior of an animal. It is designed for play with children. Gray Walter's cybernetic turtle became its prototype. Making such a homemade product will allow you to get rid of some unnecessary things.

Scientists usually depict robots-androids
Scientists usually depict robots-androids

It is necessary

  • - photoexponometer "Sverdlovsk-4" or similar;
  • - plywood;
  • - castors from a chair or mobile table;
  • - switch or toggle switch for 2 groups of contacts;
  • - parts from an old reel to reel tape recorder;
  • - electric motors from a cassette recorder;
  • - flexible multicore electric wires;
  • - relay RES-10 or similar for 1 switching group;
  • - scissors for metal;
  • - tin;
  • - cambric;
  • - paper clips (metal);
  • - soldering iron;
  • - a set for soldering;
  • - 2 flat batteries for 4.5 V;
  • - screws;
  • - screws;
  • - wooden blocks;
  • - plexiglass;
  • - dried markers;
  • - glue "Moment";
  • - round elastic bands without braiding;
  • - wire with a cross section of 3 mm;
  • - carpentry and metalwork tools.

Instructions

Step 1

Take apart 2 markers. Settle the content. Split the ends to make 2 plastic tubes. Connect the tubes together using the ring cut from the felt tip cap. Fasten the connection with Moment glue. Use a file or knife to make a side hole 2 cm from one end. The hole diameter is 3 mm. Take 2 wires in different sheaths and thread them into the tube so that they go into the long end of the tube and exit into the side hole.

Step 2

Carefully disassemble the exposure meter and remove the photodiode from it together with the reflector in which it is located. Be sure to remember the polarity. Unsolder the LED and solder the relay control winding leads instead.

Step 3

Solder the photodiode with reflector to the wires coming out of the long end of the tube. Fix the reflector with Moment glue so that its axis is perpendicular to the tube. Carefully insulate the soldering points with a cambric or electrical tape.

Step 4

Connect the wires coming out of the side hole to the exposure meter board, observing the polarity. Connect a coin battery to the power contacts of the exposure meter. Use metal paper clips soldered to the wires as clamps for the contacts.

Step 5

Opening and closing the flow of light onto the LED with the palm of your hand and adjusting the sensitivity of the received device with a variable resistance located on the exposure meter board, achieve a clear operation of the relay. If this does not work, replace the relay with a more sensitive one.

Step 6

Cut a 30x30 cm square from a sheet of plywood. At the corners adjacent to one of the sides, fasten 2 wheels from the chair. The wheels should rotate on their axles independently of each other, but at the same time always remain coaxial.

Step 7

The drive wheel with a diameter of 10-15 cm can be made from a tape pulley of a suitable size, or cut from 3 mm plywood. It has the shape of two round cheeks with a central insert. The insert should be 4-6 mm smaller in diameter than the cheeks.

Step 8

Make a block of movement and yaw. Take a strip of plexiglass and fold it (for example, in hot water) at a right angle so that one side is about 2 times longer than the other. The dimensions of the strip are arbitrary and depend on the dimensions of the parts. At the long end of the curved strip, attach the drive wheel-pulley axle and one motor from the cassette recorder. Connect their pulleys with a rubber band in tension so that the rotation of the engine pulley is transmitted to the drive wheel.

Step 9

Make a strip of plywood or plexiglass and fix it on a square base so that the drive wheel bracket installed on it allows the drive unit to rotate freely around the vertical axis 45 ° to the left and right. It is necessary to fix this strip to the base by placing a wooden block of such a thickness that the base itself, when placed on 3 wheels, is parallel to the floor. Use screws to connect this plank and block. Attach the drive block to the end of the plank so that it rotates freely with minimal friction around the vertical axis. A thick bolt or screw can be used as an axle. Mount the photodiode tube vertically on the master unit. The photodiode must "look" in the direction of the robot's movement.

Step 10

Make a yaw mechanism. Temporarily secure the second motor from the tape recorder to the base with the axis up. Attach a tin circle with a diameter of 5-6 cm or a flywheel from a cassette recorder to the axle. Make a hole with a diameter of 3 mm at a distance of 5 mm from the edge of the circle. Drill the same hole in the horizontal bar of the drive unit. Make a U-shaped bracket from steel wire with a diameter of 3 mm. Insert the folded ends into the holes in the disc and drive unit. Adjust the position of the motor and the length of the yoke so that one 360 ° rotation of the wheel will cause the drive unit to swing horizontally 45 ° to the left and right. Finally secure the engine.

Step 11

The electrical circuit of the engine block is connected through a relay so that when the yaw mechanism is disengaged, the master block is turned on and vice versa. The electro-optical and electromechanical parts of the robot have separate circuits, each of which is powered by identical flat batteries for 4.5 V, for which it is desirable to install a common toggle switch.

Step 12

When the robot is turned on, it scans until it detects a light source or a brightly lit object. After that, the travel mechanism is turned on, yaw is turned off, and the whole structure moves in the direction of the light source.

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