Sewing a good jacket is not easy even with a good pattern on hand. It is useful to learn the sequence of joining and processing parts using the example of a simple straight-cut jacket.
It is necessary
- - pattern of a straight jacket;
- - main fabric;
- - lining fabric;
- - duplicating fabric;
- - synthetic winterizer;
- - faux fur;
- - buttons or buttons.
Instructions
Step 1
Choose the material for the top of the jacket: take a fabric with a waterproof coating, check if it is wrinkled (squeeze in a fist and see if there are any wrinkles), choose a color. For a warm jacket, take a padding polyester with a thickness of one to two and a half centimeters. Choose a lining material: lightweight, quilted with padding polyester; fabric for duplicating parts: non-woven, volumenflyes; and accessories: zippers, buttons or buttons.
Step 2
Cut out all the details of the jacket: two shelves, a back (two side and middle details) and a yoke, sleeves, piping of the neck and sleeves, pockets, hood, belt. Cut out the collar, hem, hem, neck and sleeves from the overlapping fabric. The duplicating fabric is glued to the main fabric from the wrong side; for this, the parts are connected and ironed with a hot iron.
Step 3
Start sewing by laying the grooves: sweep two darts on each shelf of the jacket, stitch, iron with an iron in the direction from the center to the sides. Stitch the sides and middle of the back, you can stitch these seams over the top with two stitches to the left and right of the seam. Stitch the yoke to the back, stitch the seam in the same way.
Step 4
Baste and stitch the shoulder seams, topstitch, then grind the side seams and elbow seams on the sleeve (elbow seams are also stitched off). Then sew the lower piping of the sleeves, put the resulting ring on the sleeve so that the front sides of the piping and the sleeves match, stitch. Gather the sleeve ridge on a basting (the top of the upper cut, marked on the sleeve and armhole pattern with dots) so that it fits exactly into the armhole, sew in the sleeve.
Step 5
Sew together all the duplicated details: hem and neck hem, then hem to hem. Sweep the resulting frame to the jacket and stitch it. Thus, the cuts of the neck, bottom and sides will be processed.
Step 6
Sew the hood: cut out the top of the hood (two side and middle details) and the same bottom or inner hood. Stitch the side pieces to the middle pieces and sew the top and bottom planks (for hem). Fold the hoods with the right sides and stitch the straps, turn them out, sew the seam of the connection between the hood and the strap, make loops on it for fastening the fur edge; cut out a strip of fur, sew on the buttons and clip to the placket.
Step 7
Sew the hood into the neckline of the jacket: sew the outer hood to the neckline, and the inner hood to the neckline of the hem and piping. If the hood is fastened, sweep the lower cuts of the hood, turning them to the wrong side, stitch on top, stitch and cut through the loops of the fastener.
Step 8
Sew on patch pockets: first fold the lining with the pocket right-side up and sew, leave a small section free to turn inside out. Turn the pocket inside out, iron and stitch, then sew on top of the shelf. Sew on the flap: fold the flap and lining right sides, stitch the bottom and side cuts, turn, iron and sew over the pocket (open cut towards the pocket), lower it over the pocket, iron and stitch over the top.
Step 9
Sew on the belt, sew on the belt loops, then cut out and sew on the lining. Cut out all the details of the jacket from the padding polyester and the lining fabric, sew them together, slip into the jacket and sew by hand to the bottom of the jacket and sleeves. Last of all, sew on the buttons and sew the loops on the shelves, or punch through the buttons.
