The sleeve is a rather complex part of the product. This is because it is necessary to inscribe a curved volumetric sleeve into the linear armhole. And this must be done in the shape of the hand so that it can move freely. Much has been done in the past century to improve sleeve design. Today, you can happily use these achievements, providing the desired image and free movement of the hand.
Instructions
Step 1
Build a sleeve pattern if you have design knowledge. If not, don't worry, now there are enough magazines from where you can reshape a pattern for every taste. Translate the pattern not of any sleeve, but of the product, the pattern of which you took for the base (shelf and back).
Step 2
Check the pattern. In a classic set-in sleeve, the length of the collar should be approximately equal to the length of the armhole plus an edge fit. The height of the dowel should match the height of the armhole. The width of the sleeve should be equal to the measurement of the shoulder circumference plus an increase in fit, which is very dependent on the style and material. Using these measurements, you can build a pattern yourself. However, if the sleeve is in a raglan-type product, or in another complex model configuration, it is better to take a ready-made pattern, or be sure to first cut it on a mock fabric, and then switch to the main one so as not to spoil it.
Step 3
Transfer the pattern to the fabric. Observe warp thread direction (n.d.). In the fabric, the warp thread runs parallel to the hem. On a paper pattern, the warp thread is indicated by the direction of the arrow and is sometimes signed as n.o. When laying out patterns on n.d. fabric. on the pattern should be parallel to the edge of the fabric (you can check this by measuring the distance between them in different areas). Depending on the complexity of the sleeve and the nature of the material, the layout can be done by folding the fabric in half, or cut out each sleeve separately (for example, for slippery silk).
Step 4
Pin the pattern to the fabric and trace the outline with tailor's chalk or soap. Apply all control marks. If the fabric is double-sided, you can mark the wrong side with a cross. Remove the pattern and mark the allowances.
Step 5
Now, in the same way, circle the pattern of the finishing parts of the sleeve, outline the control marks and allowances.
Step 6
Carefully cut the sleeves along the outer contour of the seam allowances. If necessary, perform the WTO of the parts before assembling the sleeves for fitting.
