A Finnish knife or Finnish knife is a special type of knife with a straight blade and a beveled butt ("pike"). Many people, due to the lack of funds to buy a good knife or from the desire to have a knife "for themselves", try to make it on their own. This is a rather laborious business, but quite real.
It is necessary
Steel, wood block for handle, brass bar for rivets, and bronze or brass plate for bushing
Instructions
Step 1
Make a preliminary drawing in accordance with the dimensions of the finished product and display separately only the blade and the shank. Transfer the blueprint to the steel. To do this, put the cut out paper silhouette of a blade with a shank on a hacksaw blade and circle it with a pencil or marker. Trace the contour with an electric engraver. However, if it is not possible to do this, the markup will have to be updated periodically during operation.
Step 2
Remove excess metal from the workpiece. Be extremely careful and cool the workpiece from time to time by lowering it into a bucket of cold water (or another container, but not less volume, since touching the hot steel bottom will dull the tip). Work carefully when pulling out the point, because the thinner the metal, the faster it heats up. Do not make right corners at the transition of the blade to the shank, as this can weaken the structure.
Step 3
A hole for a rivet, unfortunately, cannot be drilled at home either with a conventional drill or with a victorious one. This can be done using electrolysis technology. To do this, you need to have a rectifier. Prepare electrolyte. Take a half-liter jar of warm water, add a spoonful of table salt, stir. Coat the shank in two coats with quick-drying varnish and wrap in a couple of coats of duct tape to seal.
Step 4
Mark and cut the hole on both sides of the duct tape. Put some polish on the hole and press on the tape around the hole to remove any air. Wait until it is completely dry. Do the same on the other side. Use a sharp awl to clean the hole from the varnish.
Step 5
Dip the workpiece into the electrolyte without overstepping the boundaries of the electrical tape. Connect the positive wire to the workpiece from the rectifier using a crocodile, and lower the negative wire into the electrolyte. Turn on the rectifier and touch the prepared area with the negative electrode directly in the electrolyte. The burning speed depends on the current strength (from half an hour to three). Check the hole diameter periodically. Use tapered corundum cutters to align the hole to the desired diameter.
Step 6
Clamp the cutter into the drill and align the hole from the inside. Perform "lenticular" slightly concave descents. They must have the same sharpening angle. Remove irregularities from the plane of the blade. Make small, asymmetrical indentations on the shank for better grip. Round and sharpen the shank end a little.
Step 7
The next step is sanding and polishing to protect against corrosion and improve quality through cuts. Make a bushing. The sleeve-to-blade connection is best soldered to seal. Cut a leather pad under the bushing.
Step 8
Make a handle. After that, mark the recess for the shank in the center and drill the handle from one side to cut under the shank. Glue the handle. Use two types of binary glue - epoxy and cold weld. First apply epoxy glue to the leather pad on both sides. Place the gasket over the shank and press against the bushing. Prepare "cold weld". Roll out in your palms and punch a hole in the handle. Place the shank in the hole. Let the product dry for at least a day.
Step 9
Drill the rivet hole. Insert the prepared rivet into the handle and rivet with a hammer on the anvil on both sides. Cut a splinter out of wood. Insert it into the gap between the rivet and the wood of the handle before riveting, hammer in with a hammer and cut off the excess with a knife. Then complete the rivet. Sand the surface of the handle again. Saturate with linseed oil by soaking the handle in oil for several days at room temperature or boiling in it for 1-2 hours.
Step 10
Heat impregnation saves time. However, heated linseed oil will dissolve the epoxy adhesive.
Dry the handle for about a month. The wood will become harder and protected from moisture and deterioration. Once dry, the handle can be polished.
